|
| |

| Philadelphia architectural history. |

Philadelphia is of course known for the cheesesteak among other things.
Pat's (pictured below) takes credit for inventing the sandwich which is
simply cheese, grilled onions and steak on a bun. Just across the street
is Geno's (pictured here). This was our first stop in Philadelphia on
the way to the hotel. It was a little after midnight (both restaurants
are open 24 hours a day) when we stopped to sample fare from both
places.

It's a tough thing to make a decision on. We liked the cheese sauce
better at Pat's, and the meat and bread better at Geno's. Pat's also has
a bit of an attitude (you can be sent to the end of the line supposedly
for ordering wrong) which doesn't seem warranted in our opinion. Suffice
it to say that when we returned on our way out of Philadelphia, we went
to Geno's, mostly because the line was shorter at the time.

This page is called Philadelphia but it includes some surrounding areas
as we made day-trips to New Jersey, Allentown and Pennsylvania Dutch
country while we were visiting. This is the state capitol in Trenton,
New Jersey, included here for completeness in our eventual complete set
of state capitols. The building itself is packed into downtown Trenton
and is difficult to get a clear view of. Trenton is not a particularly
attractive city and we found nothing else of interest there.

Back in Philadelphia we spent some time in Chinatown, which would more
accurately be called Asiatown as there are large Thai, Malaysian and
Vietnamese communities as well. Like other North American chinatowns,
this one features import shops, produce and meat markets, and more
noodle shops and restaurants than you can count.

As a tourist destination, Philadelphia's historic district is probably
the biggest draw (although the art museum and Franklin science center
are worth a visit too). This is Elfreth's Alley, billed as the oldest
continuously inhabited street in the United States. It's a nice play to
wander through if you can catch it between tour groups. Most of these
homes are still private residences.

Independence Hall national historic park features a bevy of old
buildings that for one reason or another have been preserved. These
include the meeting hall where the first Continental Congress was held,
the house where the Declaration of Independence was (believed to be)
written and the first bank of the United States, shown here. Nearby is
the second bank of the United States which looks suspiciously like a
cross between this one and the Acropolis in Athens.

The centerpiece is of course Independence Hall itself which was the home
of the United States government in the early days of its independence,
as well as the location where both the Declaration of Independence and
the U.S. Constitution were signed. The Liberty Bell which was intended
to hang in the steeple was famously removed after cracking (twice) and
used to stand nearby in a shelter. At the time of our visit they were
building a new pavillion to house it, though we can tell you from
previous visits to the city that the Liberty Bell is one of those
so-called attractions you see more out of some vague moral obligation
rather than any inherent interest.

Allentown is about an hour's drive northwest of Philadelphia. We went
there primarily to visit Dorney Park (an excellent amusement park), but
due to the name, we had to stop and visit Trout Hall. This marker gives
about as much other information on it as you'd want to know. We never
did find out why he named it Trout Hall, maybe it just sounded good.

In between Allentown and Philadelphia (sort of) is Doylestown. We knew
nothing of this area in advance but it's a remarkably scenic part of
Pennsylvania strewn with historic inns (that are almost all converted
into Bed & Breakfasts) and old stone farmhouses. By accident we came
across this. It is the Moravian Pottery and Tile Works factory, which
opened in 1898. They still hand-make tile here today, but mostly as a
demonstration for tourists.

It was run by Henry Mercer who built his home nearby using the same
rather unusual concrete building method. He named this home Fonthill. It
is the same color as the tile works above, the setting sun lent the
rather unusual tinting that you see in this picture. The castle is
asymmetrical (as you can see), the rooms inside are likewise and are
supposedly heavily decorated with... you guessed it, tiles.

Back in Philadelphia we spent a sunny Sunday morning in Fairmount Park.
Fairmount Park runs for miles along both sides of the Schuylkill River.
It has several historic homes, and features nearly every type of
recreation imaginable. This little section is called Boathouse Row.
Nearby universities and sculling clubs own these homes which mainly
provide storage for the boats and accessories.

The enormous Philadelphia Museum of Art is also located in the park, as
is the Philadelphia Zoo. We thought the park could maybe use some better
signs, or maybe any map at all would be useful. Finding a specific thing
can be rather difficult. Roaming around randomly can be rewarding if you
have the time.

The building in the center of this photo is the City Hall. On top, and
not particularly clear in this picture is a statue of William Penn.
Before leaving Philadelphia we spent some time driving around the area
immediately to its west, also known as Pennsylvania Dutch Country. There
aren't really any definite attractions per se in the area, although
several have made an attempt at making quilts, cheese, and carriage
rides into a tourist venue. Mostly it's just another interesting place
to wander, there are so many Amish homes in the area that horse-drawn
buggies on the road will become commonplace in a matter of minutes. The
Amish generally object to having their picture taken so we have no
well-manicured farm scenes to offer here.
Special thanks to
http://www.mrfs.net/trips/index.html |
|
|
|
Philly |
 |
|
plan (? UP). |
 |
|
Regional detail, Peter C. Varlé, "Plan of the City and its Environs" (Phila.,
ca. 1796), Bradley & Co. reprint, ca. 1895, private collection. |
 |
|
Center City detail, from Peter C. Varlé, "Plan of the City and its
Environs" (Phila., ca. 1796), Bradley & Co. reprint, ca. 1895, private
collection. |
 |
|
Courthouse Pittsburgh 1857 |
|
|
|
www.essential-architecture.com
the architecture you must see
|
|